A Year Before: Christmas Eve 2018

281

2018:  i took this photo last years Christmas Eve.  David was walking on the beach like he does every single morning.  it seemed ordinary but it turned out to be the opposite.  David almost lost his life that day.  if it wasn’t for other local surfers watching out for him, this story wouldn’t have had a happy ending…2019:  this Christmas Eve was David’s one year anniversary.  i totally forgot about the date, but i guess he didn’t.  he walked around the parking lot thanking all the people that saved his life.  i just told him “happy birthday David, you’re 1 years old!”  it’s amazing how some people get a second chance of life…i use David as an example for a lot of my students.  David is a local and surfs at Bowls everyday.  so everybody knows him and everybody watches over him.  and that’s the reason he is alive.  some surfers want to challenge themselves and surf other spots by themselves.  i always discourage that because if you do that, nobody knows you and nobody will watch over you.  and if something happens, nobody will help you.  a board can simply hit your head and you will knock out, then drown.  so unless you’re very experienced, i’d advise you to surf with a buddy at all times.  and when your buddy rides a wave, watch to see where he his and make sure he gets back out safely.  being unconscious underwater, every second counts.  the faster you get rescued, the greater chance you will survive…

anyway, Happy 1st Birthday again David!!!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide