A Day of Difference…

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yesterday’s Christmas day must have been the worst ever in terms of weather.  it was storming, it was windy, and it actually felt like a typhoon in Japan.  and when there’s typhoon winds, there’s typhoon waves.  Diamond Head was breaking in places i’ve never seen break before.if somebody could have dropped me off way on the outside, i would have loved to try to foil back to the beach.  but to paddle out?  forget it…you will never see a Christmas Day in Hawaii with the beaches so empty.  it’s usually packed!  i never seen a single surfer in the water yesterday in town…even the Hilton Lagoon had waves!  haha…this morning was much different.  no wind, sunny, warm, and lots of good waves!   Nao-san was ready for her 6’0 shortboard experience.  and once she got up, i knew she would love the ride… most of the island must have thought the waves were still junk from yesterday because there were only a handful of guys out.  once again, when you have the right board and positive mind, you will have the perfect session…thank you Nao-san for all the wonderful days of Boot Camp.  you went a couple levels up for sure and it’s only going to get better!  good surfing girl!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide