How to get an “AUTOMATIC BARREL”

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want to thank Nao-san for sending me some photos of the Pipe Masters day.  when Tony, Rainos, and I get together, we talk about everything.  we analyze people, conditions, heats, waves, and most importantly, Seth.  most things are unpredictable, but Seth Moniz isn’t.  he’s one of the most confident and calm competitor on the tour.  if Mother Nature provides him with something, he will make the most out of it.  we all agree on that…so many kids love Seth, and if you were a kid, you would love him too.from now until April 2020 is a break for the WCT, and also for us.  it’s been a long year but all the success was worth it.  we didn’t get a world title, but we got a “Rookie of the Year” award which can only happen once in a competitors life.  a huge accomplishment for the Moniz Camp…i was watching this beautiful wave coming in.  it was head high and perfect.  i saw it start to barrel and i knew these 2 surfers were out of position.  i mean way out of position!  BUT…i bet you this was the closest to a barrel this guy ever got!  and for that split second, it must have felt so dam good.  i call this getting automatically barreled!  haha…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide