Sleeping on the Job…

184

another windy morning so we did something different.  we surfed the lefts at Bowls on the very low tide.  it was very challenging but Seira-chan knows how to adapt to change…when we were paddling out, most of the guys were complaining on how windy it was.  yes, if you go right against the wind, it’s windy.  but if you go left with the wind like this, it’s epic!  use your head guys!  haha…then i looked over at Rock Piles and all the locals went in.  so we paddled over and took yet another challenge.  yeah, we love challenges…in the beginning, Seira-chan was lost at sea.  Rock Piles Rights is one of the hardest waves if you don’t know how to approach it.  but if you know the reef, current, swell direction, and take off point, it’s actually the easiest wave to surf.  i was having a blast with my twin fin!  it’s crazy that i surfed Rock Piles from when i was 15 years old.  so yeah, maybe that qualifies me for a local?  haha.  towards the end, Seira-chan figured it out and caught some beautiful waves.  we surfed 2 totally different spots in one session.  this is how you learn how to understand the ocean.  and when you can understand it, it’s never too windy!one of the guys was selling homemade laulau’s on the beach.  at $5/each, i bought 3.  a cheap meal, and also supporting a Hawaiian.  i gave one to Seira-chan so she could experience her first Hawaiian food.  i wonder how she liked it? thank goodness for iPhones.  i had to change a food disposal so thought i’d take a photo of the pipes and wires before i start taking it apart.  because if i didn’t, i could have burnt down or flooded a whole building.  i replaced an old one with a new one and now it’s working great.  once again, thank you Grandpa for teaching me how to do these things when i was a kid.

i did this right after i ate lunch so when i was lying down taking off the pipes, i actually fell asleep.  haha…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide