A Good Chance…

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what’s the chances of seeing a rainbow while surfing?  ask Seira-chan and she will probably say “very good chance.”  what are the chances of seeing 2 Hawaiian Monk Seals while surfing?  if you ask me, i’d say 1 in 500,000.  i surfed my whole life and this was my first time seeing this.  right at Bowls in the shallow water.  thank goodness i had my camera because nobody would have believed me.what are the chances of being a victim of identity theft?  i thought this would never happen to me and it just did.  so yeah, chances of your identity being stolen is high.  now who is going to pay this outrageous bill???what are your chances of seeing a view like this?  well, i’ve lived on this island my whole life and never knew this even existed.  it’s crazy where our bikes can take us…this is one of my favorite spots.  super open mountain for speed!  this hill doesn’t look steep but it is very steep.  so our leader Tony Moniz went down to check if it’s safe for us… he came flying up and said to me “super steep and easy to slide backwards.  maybe next time Kirby.”  when Tony says don’t go, i don’t go…i came home and was fixing something in my car.  Mateus came in to keep me company.  i couldn’t concentrate and fix my car because this kid wouldn’t stop talking and asking me questions!!!  haha.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide