the waves were small so i took Oshima-san over to Rockpiles. nobody was out because you’re not supposed to surf it at a minus tide like this. of course i didn’t tell him that, but he knew something was wrong when we were paddling out in shallow water like this. 
the first time i surfed Rockpiles, it was high tide. and i was terrified!!! so i could understand why everybody freaks out when they see the reef. and with the water always being crystal clear, it looks even shallower than it is. 
if you go out alone, the chances of you hitting the reef is high. it’s very tricky, but you take off at a certain spot, you will have the ride of your life, even on the small days. 
Oshima-san got one of the best waves of his life. it just goes to show that you never know what the ocean will provide you on any given day. you just have to go with the flow and you won’t be disappointed…
i thought Oshima-san’s duck dive was lucky the other day. so i watched a strong wave break over his head and wondered what would happen.
then at the perfect spot, i could see him popping up!
OMG, another perfect duck dive! i’m super impressed! 
Oshima-san, Seira-chan, and i enjoying one of the shallowest surf spots on the island. this is for experts only! good job guys…
