Last Ride…

181

we planned a full moon surf session this morning.  so when i walked out of my house at 5:20am, everything was looking good as the moon was shining so bright.

as we get to the beach, the thick clouds came and blocked out the light.  but we were already there so we paddled out in the pitch dark. i love it!

Tomami-san was the very first to be in the ocean, and the very first to ride a wave.  you can’t see well, but she’s riding this wave as i was following her from behind.  it was freaking amazing!

then it got lighter and we kept on surfing and surfing.  Tomami-san and Seira-chan riding together.

i think the next time we surf will be even earlier.  surfing in the dark early morning is addicting.

graceful as ever…

we’re almost there!  just a step and it’s full on nose riding!

last wave for Tomami-san.  after 7 Boot Camps and 150 waves, i think it was total success.

we came back to the beach and tried to take a photo.  i have no idea why it came out like this.  haha.  but as you can see, we were pretty stoked!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide