Hawaii Beach Patrol

187

the waves were stormy and junky today so i asked Seira-chan if she wanted to go with me to check out the waves this evening.  because you can learn a lot about the ocean today.  checking out wild Diamond Head.  the total opposite from yesterday…

then we went to check out Bowls and when i seen these 3 tourists, i knew we were in for some free entertainment.  first, these girls probably rented boards across the street, headed to Bowls, and didn’t know what they were in for.

they were on the beach contemplating whether to go out or not.  my advise would be “don’t go out!”  shame on the surf shop that rented them those boards knowing there are no lifeguards here.

i told Seira-chan to watch carefully.  this is how you learn.  and this is how you understand the ocean.

the girls decided to go out.  so i wasn’t leaving the parking lot because i knew the ocean could take one, or even all of their lives.  and i knew that nobody would be watching out for them.  so yeah, we stayed and watched…

i told Seira-chan to watch how they paddle and you will know their level instantly.

so yeah, the last girl was a total beginner and had no idea what she was in for.  Seira-chan knew that and she also knew that once she passes that corner of the rocks, the current was going to take her to the right…

i already knew what was going to happen.  but i wanted Seira-chan to learn from other peoples mistakes by watching.  so that’s what we did.  rest of the story coming tomorrow…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide