When in doubt, don’t go out…

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story continues from yesterday:  i tell everybody that “when in doubt, don’t go out.”  these girls were in doubt on the beach, but they went out anyway.  and right when they passed the rock corner, as expected, the wind and current took them to the right.

and in less than 5 minutes, the current took them down to the channel.  not a safe spot to be as a beginner…

we got out of the truck and walked closer to keep an eye on the girls. i told Seira-chan to just look at their faces and you will know if they’re ok or not.

they were swept down and fighting the current and wind trying to get back.  it took them a while, but luckily they made it back.  if the winds were 5 knots stronger, none of them would have made it back.

these girls are lucky they made it back to the beach safely.  you could tell they were relieved.

it’s days like this where people lose their lives in the ocean.  i’m still baffled at surf shops that rent out surfboards to beginners.  so next time you go surfing, remember that “when in doubt, don’t go out!”  simple…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide