Big Wave Kanpai…

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omg, i was watching the waves all day long and it was terrible.  then all of a sudden, i pick up Nakahodo-san and he says “rockpiles is starting to get good.  i can see it from my hotel.”  so we head there and it was better than good!  it was excellent!!!Seira-chan came along and rode some really nice lefts!!!  the waves were the best since she got here a month ago!  we scored! i’d say head high sets and long lefts off from Rock Piles rights.  Nakahodo-san just arrived from Okinawa today and was ready for the challenge.  riding a wave was the easy part.  paddling out and having 50 waves breaking on your head was the hard part. smooth, glassy, nobody, and big!  this happened for only 2 hours of today and we were right there!the winds turned offshore and it started to barrel.  Rockpiles never barrels like this!  it was amazing…Nakahodo-san on his last ride of the day.  when he came in, he said “wow, Hawaii has a lot of power.”  yeah, today was one of the best days in my life i’ve seen Rockpiles like that.  i felt like i was in Indonesia… on the way home, Nakahodo-san gave me this Chivas Regal whisky from Japan.  i wanted to open it up and take a shot because i was so dam happy!  haha..  maybe we’ll do that tomorrow?  haha.oh, and wanted to thank Tatsu-san for the senbei!  and want to thank Tomami-san for the snacks.Tomami-san harvested her own rice and i can’t wait to try it.  first i’ll go spear a fish and then make sushi.  yeah!!!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide