no matter how much rain and how dirty the water is, you can find a spot or two that is crystal clear. it’s just the way the currents flow and where the water drains out from the island. in this case, we are between 2 main drainages so the water is usually clear here no matter what.
i gave Seira-chan 2 choices in the morning. go somewhere perfect and walk the longboard, or go somewhere wild and challenge ourselves. on this day, she wanted to walk…
perfect choice for me because i love perfect waves. i had a blast!
long point right wave with Mayuki in the back. this is better then an Indonesia boat trip!
one of the old timers surfing out there said “is that your daughter?” i said “yes.” haha. people often ask me that and when i say “no,” they give me a strange face and think i’m a creepy guy hanging out with a young girl. haha. so yeah, it’s easier to say “yes” sometimes…
then he said “your daughter surfs so gracefully!” i said “thank you.” haha…
with all the panic going on in this world, there’s no where else i’d rather be. and if the rumors are true that someday everybody can’t leave their house because of the virus, i’m moving to the sea the day before that happens. i have everything on Mayuki to survive for a very long time. my surfboard, speargun, shoyu, and wasabi… and the crazy thing about it is that it’s the safest place anyway so nobody will bother me. empty lineups is like a dream to me…
last, all state parks are closed until May 1st! that means ALL lifeguards in the towers are OFF! there might be a few driving around in trucks but none full time at the beach anymore. so if you go out into the ocean, please be very careful. and most importantly, KEEP CALM!
