Dehydration and Tired: Seven hours of JOY!

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dropped off Seira-chan at 5:45am.  she was the first to paddle out again.  the early bird always gets the worm…then i went to pick up Nakahodo-san and we paddled out in the dark too.  i told him Seira-chan was already surfing and he thought i was joking.gosh, if you want to get away from all the negative news about the virus, this is the place to do it…Nakahodo-san catching an early morning gem…Seira-chan is considered a local girl.  people can’t believe she’s from Japan.Boot Camp continues.  looking super good!like everybody else, Nakahodo-san loves the morning sessions now.  i love it too! then went back in and back out with Oshima-san.  super good rides!looking like a happy surfer!and surfing like a happy surfer.been teaching Renta-kun how to smile and it’s looking pretty good.  this boy will never give up.  he wants to get better on the short board and yes he will.Seira-chan surfed all the 7 hours with me today.  after, she told me she’s so dehydrated and tired.  i was thinking, “i’ve been doing this everyday for the past 30 years.”  i’m dehydrated and tried everyday but also a very happy and healthy surfer everyday…then took this 4 year old cutie surfing for 3 rounds.  then mom and dad too.  today was a day full of smiles and laughter.  dehydrated and tired, but i’m freaking so happy!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide