yesterday was the day i thought Oshima-san was ready for a super high performance short board. and i knew once i let him ride my magic board, i wasn’t getting it back. haha.
i was so stoked watching him duck dive under the big sets. it was almost too easy for him.
look how cool this photo is. i duck dove in front of Oshima-san and pointed my camera backwards. had no idea how the photo would come out, but i was stoked with the results. looks like a dolphin!
so yeah, i never got my board back. but it’s ok because i know the feeling of riding a magic board!
then went for a surf in the afternoon with Aoki-san. super cool guy from Sendai.
and he’s only been surfing for a year! i was impressed on his level…
i surfed Sendai many times and know a lot of people from there. so wanted to say hello to everybody! and thank you Aoki-san for the great time!
for the past few days, i’ve been seeing a lot of European surfers in Hawaii. i’m pretty sure everybody is running away from many places in the world because Hawaii is probably the safest place to be. it’s like Bali over here now! and i just talked to my lifeguard friend and he said that the government is going to ban surfing in the next coming days. i was speechless when i heard that. i don’t think that’s the right thing to do, but who knows. in the meantime, let’s all just keep calm and be safe…
