Every Fathers Dream…

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so fun watching Oshima-san surfing.  progressing everyday and loving it more and more.  waves were so good this morning.  a new South swell with long walls ahead.  more bigger this week…look at Oshima-san fly!  and now the duck dive is smooth so it’s way easier to paddle back out.  when in the water, the last thing on our minds is the coronavirus.  then took Ken-kun surfing this afternoon.  he just turned 4 years old yesterday and is the cutest kid ever.  when Ken-kun was born, Nakahodo-san told me his dream is to surf with his son someday.  that day was today and not only did we surf together, we rode the same wave together!  Hawaii looks like a resort island now.  the beaches are packed with tourists and locals.  i’ve never seen it like this ever!  starting tomorrow at 4:30pm, everybody is ordered to stay home until April 30th.  i’m wondering how many people will follow that rule???

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide