Traumatized or Energized…

217

since it was Ken-kun’s first time surfing, i was very careful that he doesn’t get traumatized.  so i’m trying to entertain him so he doesn’t freakout.  and it was working really good in the beginning.  this was his first wave!  look how happy he was!  smiling the whole way!!!  but then….i fell off the board and so did he.  if you’re a 4 year old kid, you would freak out.  haha.  i saw him go over backwards and his face was full of fear.  i grab him instantly had start laughing out loud.  he wasn’t sure what to do or what to feel, so he started laughing after.  it’s times like this i was happy that his Dad wasn’t nearby.  if he was, that would be the end of surfing for this kid.  but Dad wasn’t near so he couldn’t cry.  this is the reason i tell parents to stay very far away.  Ken-kun just got back on the board and had to be brave.  then we paddled back out and he was ready to go again!  simple psychology.  haha…the next wave was even better.  this time we didn’t fall and this time the ride went perfectly.  you can see how stoked he is…we surfed 2 rounds today and i’m sure Ken-kun is going to want to surf again for sure.  i just love this Okinawan kid!  Father and Son loving the ocean, and loving Hawaii.  this is what surfing is all about.  especially at times like this, we have to stay positive, happy, healthy, and together.  that’s what the ocean provides…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide