Nakahodo-san came at a good time. waves were perfect for our 6 days of Boot Camp. and this morning, i couldn’t have asked for anything more. a BIG SWELL! haha.
the waves were so big that there is no way you could have duck dove it. so like we trained many of times, just throw the board, swim under, and you will make it out. maybe that’s the reason there was only a few of us out at Rock Piles lefts.
and when i say GO, you GO! big wave with the rainbow in the background.
i respect people that live life to the fullest. so yeah, i respect this man…
thank you for the amazing morning sessions. stay calm and everything will be ok…
the last rainbow. Nakahodo-san jumped on a flight back to Japan after this. you’re a lucky man!
came home and opened a couple of boxes that was at my door. check out my new boots for street motorcycle riding! these will turn brown from the mud in one day. haha…
then opened up another box of goodies! OMG, a box of Dove Wetsuit clothes! i’ll sort them out tonight and let you know what i got!
today i saw 5′ sets at Bowls, and tomorrow is supposed to get bigger. so now i’ll wax up my new board and try it out tomorrow. of course, i’ll be looking for the barrel. see you in the water!
