Seira Smile…

513

in the 40 days Seira-chan was here, i seen her growing up so fast.  she wanted to walk the longboard and that happened fast.  she wanted to free dive, and that was natural to her.  she also wanted to learn about people.  so i taught her the good, the bad, the ugly, and the jealous.  haha.  yeah, i remember telling her that a lot of people probably don’t like her because she’s smart, sweet, kind, respectful, and surfs so dam good.   jealousy turns people into haters.  so i told her the more people that hate you, the better you must be doing.  that’s the world we live in now so it’s all good…Seira-chan also had the opportunity to teach others how to surf, and how to be calm.  just by watching her, you will learn something…and the smile became much more radiant.  i can tell she’s very happy and in a very good place, the ocean.passing by a wild rosemary plant with Seira-chan, i took a couple branches.i gave it to her and i knew she’d figure out what to do with it.  dish 1.  rosemary garlic shrimp.dish 2.  rosemary grilled chicken.  yeah, not too many young girls can be creative and cook like this these days.  good job!  surfing with Seira-chan everyday was a treat.  we went with the flow everyday and let the ocean decide our course.  that’s the life i love so much so it was good to see her loving it too.  keeping calm, smiling, and just enjoying every moment nature puts in front of us.  the rain, the coldness, the sunburn, the moonlight, and the beautiful rainbows of Hawaii.  and i also want to thank Seira-chan for keeping me calm a couple of times too.  when i was thinking too much at times, she would say “breathe!”  haha.  glad you got back to Japan safely.  keep the smile, and keep the Aloha…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide