Diamond Head Cliffs!

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i was watching the waves from 5am all day long and was waiting for the right moment.  the wind backed off, the swell came up, and the tide was perfect.  Diamond Head Cliffs was as good as it get!

i foiled today because wanted to stay away from people.  good choice because i was flying around like a free bird!!!

if you come here, there doesn’t seem to be social distancing.  i was talking to one of my friends about beach closures around the world.  and with 100 guys out today in the lineup, i wouldn’t be surprised if we’re next.  that’s a scary thought…

i saw some guys hanging out at Bowls and Diamond Head in the parking lots.  that’s crazy!  why would you want to hang around at a time like this?  everybody, surf and go home!

and last night, my neighbor had a party with lots of teenagers partying all night long.  where were the police?  no wonder this virus is spreading so fast in Hawaii.  i found out my friends co-worker who works at a hotel in Waikiki was the 4th person to die in Hawaii from the virus.  shock…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide