watch Bruce taking off on a set early in the morning before the sun comes up. sweet!
i’ve been surfing Bowls early, then when it gets crowded, i go to Rock Piles Rights. totally different locals, and totally different vibe. much smaller take off zone and much shorter wave. so if you’re an outsider, you will feel shut out. lucky these guys are my friends so i can sneak in a wave here and there. 
and when i can steal a wave from the boys, i make the most out of it. i’m totally in love with surfing again! i named this magic board Cookie Monster! 
when i was talking to Eri-chan the other night, the first thing we asked each other was “when can we travel again???” i know she’s waiting for the day we can all travel like free birds again. so am i. i miss the feeling of going far, into a different culture, surfing the unknown, and learning new things. this one in particular was on a secluded secret island off Mindanao, Philippines. it was in 2004 on a million dollar yacht. good waves, good friends, good vibes, good times, and lifetime memories…
