Supporting Local

203

since i went to the North Shore, i stopped by my favorite place.  Surfers Coffee!  due to the lockdown, it was completely empty…this place use to be very popular so it was kind of sad to see it barely surviving.  i went there because Nao-san sent me a gift card from Japan so i can support her favorite place too.  thank you Nao-san!  the Tiger Spice Chai Tea was amazing!  and whenever i go to Surfers Coffee, i gaze at the poster on the wall of Tony Moniz at Pipeline.  one of the best photos of Pipeline ever…then wanted to support local even more so headed to buy local eggs.  now i just drive up and the staff puts the eggs in my car.  i bought 5 carts so that’s 150 fresh eggs!Donald and i pulled up to this spot.  one of the locals was in the parking lot and said “there is a big shark in the lineup so everybody just came in.”  wow, good timing!  i told the local “there are sharks here everyday dude.”  then i paddled out, surfed by myself while Donald watched.”  Donald never came out and when i was driving home, i was wondering if he didn’t want to come out because of the shark?  anyway, i scored perfect foiling surf all to myself…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide