got a text at 5am, “waves look super fun.” forget breakfast, forget brushing my teeth, i was out the door and heading to the North Shore. i start paddling out and this was to my left…
and this was to my right. i couldn’t believe how beautiful it was. 
Donald borrowed my board and almost never gave it back. haha. right after this, he went to order a new foil. so yes, i’m on the best foil in the market right now. 
it was nice to see Kaiborg. use to surf Backdoor with him almost every day so when i paddled out, i told him “i know you know where the best waves will come. so i’m going to sit and wait right next to you.” he said “no, go away.” haha. we had the best session ever!
Uncle Brian Surrat is over 70 years old but enjoying life like a teenager. so fun sharing waves and stories with these legends. 
it’s like Disneyland for us, or even better. we take off on the same wave and scream the whole way! 
i rode my last wave to the beach so over a 2 minute ride. came in, talked story to the boys in the parking, and went home very happy little kids. Kaiborg told me today “this is a new chapter in our lives. can’t beat it.” he is absolutely right!
