after surfing Bowls in the morning, i knew Big Rights will be perfect in the afternoon. i watched it all day long and when the wind turned a little more offshore and the tide filled in, i was speeding off to Big Rights.
paddled out and the boys said it was very slow and not too good. i told one of my friends: it’s going to get good soon and that’s why i’m here! haha. right as i said that, the horizon came alive. huge double overhead sets started approaching and it was barrel after barrel. not too many guys out so barrels for everyone. i was only planning to surf for an hour but stated out for four hours. i didn’t want to come in!
it was perfect Big Rights with this little people out. i got my best barrels of the year so far and Summer has just begun. want to thank all the younger guys for giving this Uncle all the barrels i wanted. i respect you boys..
some of the Kewalo’s boys were out so gave them a ride back to Kewalo’s. we were all too tired to paddle so thank you Mayuki. i’m totally hooked on surfing again because there is no feeling better in the world than getting barreled!
