yesterday’s sunrise was one of the best in a while. all the colors came out right before the sun came up. as i was foiling, i felt like a free bird roaming the beautiful skies of Hawaii. it was amazing…
been surfing a lot in the morning so decided to foil. the tide was super low but if you keep the foil high, you can still clear the reef. and instead of taking turns surfing with 20 guys, i could take off on any wave i wanted. i felt like i was the only one in the ocean…
while i was on the South shore, Donald was on the West shore. of the 30 years i’ve been surfing with him, i’ve never seen him this stoked on a wave. it’s funny how the foil brings out the kid in all of us. this is the kind of faces we use to make in Elementary school. haha…
