what i like the most about Ala Moana Bowls is the unpredictability. the wave will come in looking perfect but it’s actually not. some break fast, some slow, some closeout, some back off. it took me years and years to figure out that wave and i still can’t totally figure it out.
what i like about Big Rights is the predictability. the wave is so perfect that i can tell before taking off if it will barrel or not. if it barrels, you simply pull in. and if it doesn’t, you simple do the biggest turn of your life. either way, it’s all good!
wow, the sunflower fields are blooming! just seeing this beautiful flower makes me happy…
