i got a text last night that a spot on the West side was going to be good. a spot i always wanted to foil so i woke up at 3am and waited in the dark. met the boys there and had the time of my life!
heard for the past 2 years that this is the best foiling spot on the island. i didn’t believe it until now. this is the Pipeline of foiling!
you can take off on pretty much any wave and it will be good. you’re flying so fast that most of time i’m just trying to hang on for your life.
now i know why everybody from town and the North shore drive out that far and paddle even farther to get here. it was so peaceful, so fast, and better than Disneyland…
you’re basically in the middle of the ocean riding to the beach. over 550 yards long or 500 meters of pure joy. i can’t wait to take my Japanese foilers and surfers there. i know they will love it more than i love it… thank you Fabian for the photos! see you there again very soon!
then drove back to town looking at the destruction to paradise. i never believed in the rail project back before it started, and still don’t now. overpriced, delayed, and ugly…
anyway, more big South swells on the way. i’ll be surfing or flying somewhere around this island. just going with the flow day by day…
