Simply Flying…

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 i totally got back into surfing.  then after doing it everyday, i was sitting in the lineup watching a guy foiling at the next spot all by himself.  right then, i knew i wanted that feeling of freedom again.   so when i was invited to a totally new spot i’ve never been to before in my life, i felt so excited to go.  i couldn’t sleep because i was thinking about how it would be.   Glenn Pang foils every single day.  he and the boys know where to go and where ever they end up at, it’s the best spot of the day for sure.  so when i saw him there, i knew i was at the right place.  he was teaching me how to foil that spot and i surely learned a lot.   Fabian came out later.  this guy always ends up at the best spot on the island too.  i was very competitive all my life.  and most surfers are.  but ever since i started foiling, that competitiveness went away.  and every surfer that turned foilers are the same.  i can see everybody helping and cheering each other on.  we share information on waves, lineups, equipment, and also share photos.  it’s very humbling and very amazing how your life can change by simply learning how to fly…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide