Full Bloom Girlfriends

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omg, the waves were super small this morning but decided to drive an hour and take a chance at another secret spot.  pulled up before the sunrise and the waves were unbelievably good!  way bigger and way better than i thought!!!  and to top that off, nobody was out!!!  i rode this wave for over 600 meters which took almost 2 minutes!  so happy!  a 59 cents McDonald’s ice cream cone looks very tempting.  but at 7:45am this morning, i passed it up… yesterday Mateus was very happy taking home buds from his gardenia plant.  he’s been taking care of it and watering it everyday so it’s taking care of him too. then when i got home today, he yelled from the window, “Unko, look at my flowers!”   he was so happy to show it to me.then he kept on smelling and smelling it.  and spilling and spilling the water all over himself.  haha.  i bet you when he gets older, he will pick gardenias from his plant and give it to his girlfriend.  or girlfriends.  haha…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide