good black friday morning. the busiest shopping day of the year in america. i ain’t going near the malls today. i’m going to the beach!!! the buoy peaked at 8 feet 21 seconds last night so this is going to be a really clean 10-15′ swell. the waves are looking 4-6′ now but be careful because it’s going to come up really fast. the sunset beach contest should get on its way. haleiwa and pipeline should be epic today. no wind now but onshore winds should be coming around lunch time. have a nice day and be safe….
2 houses down from where my sister them are staying, they made this awesome slide yesterday. you just have to see the youtube video i took. chicks flying 10′ in the air while holding their beer? very talented. i downloaded the video and i’m not sure if i should show it because some clips are rated X. yeah, tops flying off and everything… you just had to be there…
here are a few more photos from yesterday’s rocky point session. sonny miller has been on the beach all day filming the roxy girls. i guess their making a video or something. this roxy girl was surfing the best. i don’t know her name but some of the backside shaps she was doing was nuts. this is nuts…
kahea hart was out there ripping too. it’s funny to see all the kids out there ripping and catching all the waves. then kahea paddles out and does some sick turn that keeps the kids quiet….
whether your surfing the waves or surfing the skies, as long as your surfing, it’s all good…
and last, want to thank toda-san for sending me this photo of mt. fuji. you just made my day!!!
