good evening. the waves were going off out on the north shore. haleiwa was the spot…
pulled up in the morning knowing that the waves are on the rise. it was 3′ in the morning and building fast. i seen a couple of 8′ sets in the evening. nao and i went out and i was a little nervous for her because if a freak 10′ set comes, she’s in big trouble… me too. but she ran away and only got caught by a couple of 6′ sets. good experience for her…
every tom, dick, and harry was out today. mick fanning, taj burrow, fred pataccia, sean moody, kekoa balcasco, the hobgood’s, shuji kasuya, glenn matsumoto, glenn minami, and a whole bunch of top pros…. it was fun to surf, and fun to watch everybody ripping haleiwa. by the way, this is mick fanning….
stopped by the log cabin house and all the kids were down at the beach playing around in the shorebreak…
then we rode our bikes to check out pipeline. gosh, it was so beautiful. really west swell with perfect peeling barrels. gosh, it was such a nice day for surfing on the north shore. another big swell on thursday and more swells on the way. it’s going to be a great december….
for the past week, nao-chan fell asleep everyday on the way home from the north shore. yesterday and today, i made her stay up. how? she was laughing at me while i was singing karaoke in the car all the way home.. haha….
