was on standby this morning again. and when i got out there, it was a dream. foiling with the North Shore boys having so much fun! here is early bird Uncle Brian…
back when i use to surf with Kaiborg at Backdoor/Pipeline, we didn’t have much to talk about. it was just so tense out there and everybody was super hungry for the wave of the day. but now, we have lots to talk about. and it starts at 4am in the morning. we’re like kids trying to find the best spot on the island to foil. and it’s still pitch dark! haha. but once the sun comes up, we’re already ahead of everybody else…
i feel like everyday is a surf trip. i wake up at 3:30am waiting for the call. and once i find out where the best spot is, i’m leaving. today we were at the best spot, and for tomorrow, i already know where the best spot will be. so i’ll sleep at 7:30pm, wake up at 3:30am, and do it all over again. goodnight…
