The Agony of Defeat…

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foiling is similar to shortboarding because you can do maneuver after maneuver.  check out my friend raising his hands up.  he’s lucky i didn’t run him over.  haha…foiling is like lonboarding because you can actually walk the board.  walk more up is more speed.  walk more back is wipeout.  haha…one of my friends just started to foil.  this was his third time.  i was foiling on the side of him yelling!  then he looked at me and had the biggest wipeout ever.  i forgot to tell him to “look forward!”  haha…we’ve been foiling spots all over the island we’ve never even cared about before.  and now, we’re the first ones out and having the most fun.  it’s addicting to look at the ocean in a different way now… came home and Mateus did his chores.  his gardenia tree is huge!!!we picked a dozen flowers and that ended up our sweet day…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide