Emotionally Attached

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i went to bed at 7:30pm last night, replied to some texts, and within 20 minutes, i was sleeping.  woke up at 3am and was waiting for the day to start.  worked out, did some yoga, had breakfast, and left my house in the dark.

another epic day.  absolutely perfect conditions…

all morning, there was only the 3 of us out.  taking turns on waves and even riding together.

this one the 3 of us had and rode it weaving in and out of each other.  it’s super fun!

Kaiborg’s been foiling longer than me so he’s been giving me a lot of advice.  and it’s been helping a lot because i can feel myself getting better!

we have some pretty hilarious conversations.  stories from the old, and new.  laughing all the time.

then Matt Mondragon came out so it was the 4 of us.  we scored again!  thanks boys!

after foiling, i got a text from Donald.  he’s coming back tomorrow so i had to drop his board off at his house.  after that, i was crying on the way home.  after a week on his magic board, i was emotionally attached.  i’m still kind of sad…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide