University of Hawaii ’92

199

can’t wait to watch the contest on Sunday, August 9th!  it’s at the Ranch wave pool and Seth Moniz and Carissa Moore are teaming up!  go Hawaii!the other day i paddled out to Bowls before 5am.  nobody was in the ocean so it was like black paradise.  you couldn’t see a thing except for the moonlight shining off the ocean surface.  riding a wave in complete darkness is the best feeling in the world!  and watching the moon set to the West and the sun rises from the East.  it’s surreal…then yesterday morning i paddle out to Diamond Head in the dark too.  birds flying high, dolphins passing by, and epic long rides.  this has been my everyday ritual…Lance was in a few of my classes at the University of Hawaii.  we were talking about the good old college days.  Lance told me that one of our teachers knew i was surfing when i didn’t show up for class.  haha.  i remember going to college with surf trunks, bleached hair that was still wet, and sand still on my feet.  till this day, we still don’t know how i graduated.  haha…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide