good morning on this beautiful cold sunday morning in japan. gosh, yesterday was another great day of surfing. it all started off at 3:47am when i awoke to a big earthquake. not the side to side kind, but the up and down kind. my alarm was set at 3:55am anyway so i got up and left forgetting to brush my teeth. nah.. went to tokura-san’s house, loaded up his van, and headed to pick up the yugawara groms….
this was the sunrise on the way. gosh, it’s been so long since i saw the sun. i forgot how happy it makes me feel….
these are the yugawara groms. ryota and shun. both 10 years old or so and rippers. it was shun’s first time to a river mouth so i was stoked to be with him. i guarantee he will never forget this day… i’ve never seen two groms get so many barrels in a day…. ryota and shun are coming to hawaii this winter season. they are going to freak…. can’t wait…
this was the wave when we first pulled up. this is a secret river mouth so i can’t say where it is. just that it’s near a big mountain. anyway, big mountain river mouth was going off…. perfect overhead barreling super long lefts. i’ve been surfing perfect rights all year so it felt good going backside on a wave where you could do anything you want. pull in, or hit the lip. just glassy perfection…. score again. i feel like i got so many good waves this year that some surfers won’t experience in their whole lifetime. just wanted to thank the people that always make it happen for me. i’m sitting on my bed typing this with a pretty big smile on my face. life is good…..
there is a river you have to cross to get to big mountain river mouth. in the river, there are deadly snakes and alligators so you have to be careful where you walk. once you get through the river, there are bushes that have bears and tigers hiding inside. it’s a pretty nuts place so i wouldn’t go there if i were you….
**anyway, wanted to thank toda-san, takami-san, and the big mountain locals for sharing their waves with us. had a great time and can’t wait till next year… doomo arigato gozaimasu….
