Injecting Confidence…

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 ok, if i were to tell you to choose a board, which would you choose?  i bet you chose the one on the left because it looks newer right?   anyway, i asked Reef which board he liked and like most of you, he chose the one on the left.  then i told him, “when you have a chance to get a pro surfers used board, always pick the uglier one.  the one that’s turning yellow and has lots of dings.  there is a reason for that.  and that reason is because it was probably magic so he rode it more, and kept it longer!”  so i see Reef paddling out. something was different.  he looked more confident, and more cool.  instead of waiting in the inside for leftovers, he went straight to the outside waiting for sets.  it was super cool to see that…then he paddled into a set, did a bottom turn, and flew down the wave.  this kid is ripping!watch out for this kid.  he will only get better and braver.  and the fact that he’s such a little gentlemen, it makes him look even better!

by the way, Reef told me “uncle, the older yellow board works better.”  haha…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide