paddled out this morning before the sunrise. foiled with a couple guys. compared to yesterday, it was empty…
then this afternoon i check the cameras and OMG! there were so many surfers out at Rockpiles!!! i’ve never seen it like this before! i hope the Governor doesn’t see this because he will close the ocean for sure! then i checked Bowls and it was crowded too! Kaisers packed too! here is what i counted:
86 surfers at Rockpiles
67 surfers at Kaisers
51 surfers at Bowls
luckily, Carter and i went foiling this afternoon at our little spot near Diamond Head. i heard yesterday had 40 guys out, but today there were only 3 longboard girls out. so i guess we chose the right spot because compared to everywhere else, it felt like we were on some secluded island of Indonesia. i’m wondering what tomorrow will bring…