Overcrowded Monday…

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paddled out this morning before the sunrise.  foiled with a couple guys.  compared to yesterday, it was empty…

then this afternoon i check the cameras and OMG!  there were so many surfers out at Rockpiles!!!  i’ve never seen it like this before!  i hope the Governor doesn’t see this because he will close the ocean for sure!  then i checked Bowls and it was crowded too!  Kaisers packed too!  here is what i counted:

86 surfers at Rockpiles

67 surfers at Kaisers

51 surfers at Bowls

luckily, Carter and i went foiling this afternoon at our little spot near Diamond Head.  i heard yesterday had 40 guys out, but today there were only 3 longboard girls out.  so i guess we chose the right spot because compared to everywhere else, it felt like we were on some secluded island of Indonesia.  i’m wondering what tomorrow will bring…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide