with so many surfers on the island surfing now, it’s almost impossible to surf places with nobody out. so yesterday was pretty dam lucky for us. that’s Carter probably thinking the same thing. you won’t see Diamond Head like this very often…
Carter took off on a wave and was flying. timing was everything!
then i paddle out this morning and it was dark again. i can’t even see 5′ ahead but i can feel the fresh air blowing in my face. caught my first wave in the dark and rode it screaming. i’m sure i woke up the people living in the houses in front because it was still 5am. haha.
then after that, i grab my shortboard and go surf the new swell at Bowls. Momotaro and i having a great time!
i’m not sure which i like better, surfing or foiling. but the cool thing is i can do both in the same day. stay tuned because i think we’re getting a 30 day lockdown coming up very soon. so get as many waves as you can while you can…
