wow, another beautiful morning in the ocean. we paddled out super early and it was totally dark this morning. no moon so you won’t see a wave until it breaks on your head. haha. but it’s good to wake up like that…
then when it got lighted, all the morning crew came out for this nice South swell!
Mia on a good one following the sunrise…
my new early morning surf buddy. all she kept saying was “i’m sooooo happy!!!”
locals Lance Hookano and Tommy Chung-ming paddling out early too. these 2 guys catch everything so even though they’re my friends, i don’t like surfing with them. haha. 
i counted 10 locals in the lineup so you had to wait your turn today. 
these are the moments i live for. when the sunrise lights the sky up like it’s on fire, it’s unbelievable.
8pm now and just foiled until dark. from sunrise to sunset. a lovely day! goodnight…
