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i wanted to get some good exercise so i started off at Kaisers.  caught a few there and then pumped my foil to Rockpiles.  when i get to Rockpiles, a nice set came right to me.  this guy was trying to catch it but i knew he was on the wrong side of the reef so he wouldn’t make it.  i turn around and this was my best wave of the day.  i teach my students to always be ready and alert because you better be ready if someone misses the wave or falls.  and that happens a lot.   so take another surfers loss and turn it into your gain.  got it?  the water has been super clean.  good to see the fish enjoying the peaceful life.  then got to Bowls and it was so beautiful.  so surfing 3 spots in a 2 hour session is healthy and happy.  i got to see different waves, different people, and feel a different vibe. loved all of it so i’ll be doing that more often…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide