Priceless Night

245

i’m writing this at 11:25 pm on october 29th, 2011.
i’m getting old and it’s so weird how many surprise birthday parties i’ve gotten this month. does anybody know something i don’t? what’s going on? i walk into kiki’s last night and see my friends, brother, sister, and other people sitting on the same table. happy birthday? what? my birthday was a month ago? but hey, i’ll take it. haha. my friend holli was the mastermind behind last night and if it wasn’t for her, i wouldn’t be the person i am today. and i think a lot of people would agree. she’s been there for me through the good times, and the bad times of most of my life.
anyway, we watch the fight, i was bummed because BJ Penn lost. then something weird happened. holli pulled something out of the bubble wrap. i thought to myself? what’s going on? she opened it and the first thing that caught my eye was a ONE sticker. ahhhh….. i can’t write anymore now. i’m too emotional. i will explain it to you when i gather my thoughts together. but you know something? ever since march 11th, my life has changed. changed to a point of no return. i’ve been so busy since then that i haven’t had the time to sit and think about what’s happened. but everything is hitting me now. the things i saw up in tohoku, the kids i played with, the total devastation, the radiation, my wonderful team, and my family and friends. i feel like the luckiest person in the world, but at the same time, feel so sad for the people that lost loved ones. it’s like a roller coaster. feel so high one time, but so low other times. i think i’m tricking my mind to keep busy so i don’t have to think about sad things. it’s working but when i look back at the photos and video i took in tohoku, everything comes back. i’ve had lots of people come up to me and talk about tohoku. and when a japanese national comes to me and says “thank you for caring about my country,” i feel a sharp pain in my heart. i can’t break down, i have to stay strong and all i can say is “please don’t thank me.”
tonight brought everything back as i sit down on my computer writing this from my heart. my family and friends all stood by me through this hard year for me. i really appreciate all the support, even from strangers. i promise to keep on doing what i think is right. i know we can’t fix every problem, but if we can change one life, it’s all worth it. our missions will continue and i will never give up hope. thank you all for the support you’ve given me and our team. i’ll never forget this for the rest of my life!
We Are One!
Goodnight.
and to my friends that came tonight. i wish i could have stayed longer. i really miss you guys and when i get my next day off, let’s talk to the morning sunrise. hope your having fun and please get home safe. oyasumi.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide