i pulled up to the beach with my foil this morning. then seen some big sets so went back to my car to get my shortboard. good choice because the waves were perfect for high performance surfing!
after surfing yesterdays secret spot with nobody out, i had to adjust at the competitive Ala Moana Bowls. i put my competitive mental mode on so had to act a little crazy. then my first perfect wave comes to me and guess who drops in on me? yes, the weatherman Guy Hagi!!! haha…
at Bowls, guys drop in on everybody, even friends drop in on friends. it’s pretty funny watching all that. it’s free entertainment…
at 5:30am there is absolutely no parking. then when the morning crew goes in about 8am, there is a long line at the shower.
sometimes the line to the shower goes into the water. it’s crazy!
i get in my car and look towards Waikiki. it’s weird looking at the empty beaches. i kind of like it this way because nature is finally returning to nature. and i love nature…
