yesterday morning i foiled at Bowls and it was kind of crowded. then when i was ready for round 2, i checked the waves and OMG!!!!! can you believe this??? i haven’t seen anything like this in my lifetime here in Hawaii. this is more crowded than Japan!!!
i checked every spot on the South shore and every spot was way too crowded. 
but the waves were super good! late Summer swell! yeah!
so i jumped on Mayuki and she took me to a very special secret spot…
i wanted to try my new board so this was the day. i always tell people to try their new board only when the waves are good. surfed perfect barreling waves with nobody out. i thought i was in a dream…
surfed into the sunset because it was too good to leave. 
came in at dark and enjoyed the Waikiki city lights for a while. it was so beautiful!
