Paradise Session

225

i was looking at the surf all morning and everywhere was totally packed!  no parking and hundreds of surfers everywhere!  so i jump on Mayuki to search for something special.  i pass by bowls, rock piles, kaisers, pop’s, and when i got to three’s, there were only a few surfers out.  i dropped anchor and surfed the best spot on the south shore!  at one point, there were only 4 guys out.  one was my friend Todd who said “i can’t believe nobody’s out!”  we scored! i caught about 10 waves on my foil and was flying.  long rights and perfect conditions.  got back to Mayuki, pulled up the anchor, and drove back a very happy man.  then went shopping and spent $800 for supplies.  going to take Mayuki out of the water and give her some loving care!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide