this is the reward for getting up early and being in the ocean. it’s been picture perfect every single morning. this morning, it was no different…
the waves have been good for lonboarding, shortboarding, and even foiling. i guess you can say everybody is happy…
there were some head high sets at Bowls. when i’m paddling out, i always like to watch the near accidents. in this case, a guy practically running over a girl. omg!
i chose to surf my shortboard today. i caught 5 waves which took an hour. if i chose my foil, i would have caught 20 waves in an hour. so i know what i’ll be riding tomorrow…
passed by Diamond Head on the way home. it was overhead and very good.
only a few surfers out having a blast on this late season swell. tomorrow will also be good for sure. see you out there!
