You Both Need a Surf Lesson!

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i can see things happening before they happen.  i’m paddling out watching 4 people paddling for the same wave.  the girl on the right side, she’s a beginner so keep your eye on her.  of course she’s not looking back because obviously she hasn’t been taught the right way.  so yeah, it can be very dangerous.then the wave pushes her and she panics.  grabs the rail and can’t stop.  the longboard girl behind her is standing up already riding still doesn’t see her.  now the beginner can’t stop and is basically hanging on for her life.  this is where i’m thinking “omg, this could get ugly.”  luckily the longboard girl finally sees the beginner, but keeps on going in her direction.  then the beginners surfboard starts to go under water.  this is creating her surfboard into a slingshot.  it will fly somewhere very soon.right after i took this photo, i seen the longboard go over the girls head.  good thing she ducked or it would have been a knock out blow to the head.

so in this situation, 2 things went wrong.  one was the beginner girl shouldn’t have even been out there.  the waves were way out of her league.  second, the longboarder girl that was riding the wave should have just gone straight, instead of turning in the direction of the beginner.  you don’t want to take chances in this situation because nobody wins.  so my advise is for both of these girls to take a surf lesson.  it might save their lives one day…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide