well, it’s been an endless summer on the south shore. the waves have been super fun everyday and everybody seems to be happy. i’ve been surfing with lots of people from japan and to see the smiles is amazing. i haven’t been more excited on surfing, i haven’t been more excited on people, and i haven’t been more excited on life as i am now. back in 1990 on my first trip to japan, i set a big dream in my mind. i worked hard at it for the past 21 years and guess what? i’m living in it right now! no, i’m not a millionaire, but i’m living a millionaire life with a million friends.
i keep telling kids around me to dream big. make the biggest dream, work hard to achieve it, and when it comes true, live it up! and every morning when you get up, go out and give everything your 100%.
i read this quote a while back, and it repeats in my mind over and over.
“LIVE THE MOMENT, THE MOMENT IS NOW!”
