was in the water from 6-9:30am. started off foiling empty waves in the dark, then longboarding crowded waves in the light. the typical Sunday traffic…
Nanami-san met me out for round 2. it was still 7:30am but the sun was glowing, and so was she…
Nanami-san is feeling the connection. very calm and very cool surfing style…
Lauren is a very smart girl. she listens carefully and figures things out pretty quickly. and that’s why she surfs so good already.
Liam wanted to surf goofy foot today so that means right foot forward…
Gavin and i were talking about the double overhead day i took them out. they were just beginning at that time but that day made them fearless. so days like today are pretty simple…
Sunday traffic! watch out Nanami-san!
i was out for 3.5 hours and must have seen a hundred surfers paddle out, and paddle in. good waves, good times, and a perfect super Sunday!
