for the past 2 days, i’ve been watching the East winds blowing and sending wind swells our way. most of the boys are on the East side foiling onshore waves but i know a spot that loves this kind of swell and weather pretty close to my house. today, i drove around Diamond Head to take a look at it…
i was ready for today and as soon as i turned the corner, i saw my little secret spot going off! threw the anchor, grabbed my foil, and flew out there!
the waves were head high and nobody around. i couldn’t believe it!
i was practicing taking off on the sets and holding on to my life. i felt like i was surfing 10′ Sunset Beach. the only difference was i could catch a wave, pump back out, and catch a bigger one. i was doing that all morning without another foiler in sight. i was having the time of my life and it was hard for me to come in…
back to the harbor and washed of my baby who is now sparkling clean. the funny thing is tomorrow that secret spot will be flat. it only works after 2 days of 30mph plus winds. and today was that day! timing is everything…
