Foil vs. Fishing…

189

i paddled out to Kaisers in the dark.  i was the first one out.  when i got to the lineup, i felt something hit my hand.  it was dark so i didn’t know what it was, but i ended up getting tangled in it.  it was thick fishing line!!!  it got tangled in my foil, on my body, and on my leash.  i untied everything by feel and was lucky a wave didn’t come at the time.  the fishing line was attached to the reef on both ends so i couldn’t break it free.  i managed to catch a wave and when i paddled back out, i got tangled up again.  then i thought how dangerous it would be if it wrapped around my hand and a wave came and pushed me in.  then it would basically cut me to my bone.  so as guys were coming out, i was telling them about it.  then one of the guys went back in to grab a knife and cut it off the reef.  there is no reason why a fishing line could be way out there on that reef attached to the reef on both ends.  so i was thinking that somebody put it there on purpose.  crazy…i got to ride 2 waves which were perfect so i was satisfied.  going to go home and take a nap…  then i get a call from Carter saying how perfect Diamond Head is!!!  so i head straight to Diamond Head to check it out.  lots of cars so that means the waves are good. and omg!  it was absolutely perfect!  i grabbed my foil and ran down the cliff.  it was foiling heaven…  by 10am, i had 2 rounds and ready for a deep nap.  dream session…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide