after John’s memorial was all finished yesterday, i went out to Rockpiles because i wanted to catch 3 waves. one was for Sunny Garcia, one was for Derek Ho, and one was for John Shimooka. there were lots of surfers in the lineup but i paddled straight to the peak, then caught the first wave that came in, then straight back to the peak, caught wave two, then straight back to peak again to catch wave three. then i paddled back to Mayuki. it took 15 minutes to do that. there is a reason why i caught the 3 waves in a row back to back. i did it because that’s what those 3 guys did in every lineup around the world. so it had to be that way to mean anything to them. haha. so want to say sorry to the 15 other surfers out at Rockpiles, i usually don’t do that. i just needed to make my boys smile…
